As middle age looms, I am knee-deep in my attempt to climb the 40 highest mountains in Ireland. To be honest, ticking off all of these summits before I turn 40 is proving to be a massive logistical effort. I now realise why climbing so many mountains may not appeal to everybody. So let me suggest something a little more attainable instead – Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge.
Now, let’s be clear: this is still no easy undertaking. First of all, you need a reasonable level of fitness to confidently tackle a mountain (and these ones are all pretty high!). Secondly, Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge requires a fair bit of planning and organisation. The four peaks are spread across the country, so no matter where you’re based, simply getting to the trailheads will involve a significant amount of travel.
That said, I think Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge is a brilliant adventure to take on. It gives you the opportunity to stand on the highest mountain in each of Ireland’s four provinces and experience some of the finest scenery the country has to offer. And who knows, it might even be the start of something bigger. Perhaps you’ll move on to climbing every county top in Ireland. Or, if the mountain bug really bites, you might find yourself ticking off all 275 mountains in Ireland.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through each of the four peaks, explain what to expect on the climbs, suggest accommodation options nearby, and even show you how the truly ambitious can complete Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge in a single day.
Details of Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge
The goal of Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge is simple: climb the highest mountain in each of Ireland’s four provinces. Together, these four mountains form a fantastic rite of passage into Irish mountain hiking, taking you from the beautiful peaks of Wicklow and the Mournes to the rugged landscapes of Kerry and Mayo.
| Province | Mountain | Height | County |
| Munster | Carrauntoohil | 1,039m | Kerry |
| Leinster | Lugnaquilla | 925m | Wicklow |
| Ulster | Slieve Donard | 849m | Down |
| Connacht | Mweelrea | 814m | Mayo |
| Total | 4 Peaks | 3,627 | 4 Counties |
Carrauntoohil
The roof of Ireland. Climbing Carrauntoohil feels like a real achievement. This is probably why so many people do it. A lot of these people underestimate how difficult it actually is. The most straightforward route is via the Devil’s Ladder. This involves 6-7 hours of hiking with a massive elevation gain. Sometimes the clue is in the name.
The view from the top of the Devil’s Ladder is spectacular though. The steepness of the climb up to that point gives you a wonderful sense of accomplishment too. This isn’t a walk in the park – this is proper mountain hiking. You can see a full description of the Carrauntoohil trail here.
Why climb this mountain? If you are only going to climb one mountain, it makes sense for it to be the highest.
Suggested Route: The Devil’s Ladder proves the most straightforward way of getting to the top. See map details here.
Where to Stay? You can camp at Cronin’s Yard – the starting point for the hike so by far the closest. Most people however will choose to make Killarney their base when attempting the Carrauntoohil climb. You have a host of options available in this lovely tourist town. The Killarney Railway Hostel would be the most budget friendly. Places like the Killarney Court Hotel or Foley’s Townhouse are always popular too. If you really want to treat yourself, how about trying the Killarney Park Hotel?
If you are spending a few days in this part of the world, check out my Best Walks in Killarney article for more hiking inspiration.
Lugnaquilla
I am based in Dublin so I really love how close Lugnaquilla is to me. You can start the hike from the Glenmalure Valley which is a beautiful place all by itself. I’ve spent loads of time in Glenmalure which has a variety of excellent hikes to choose from.
The big draw (literally) has to be Lugnaquilla itself. You’ll always find people making their way towards the highest point in both the Wicklow Mountains and the province of Leinster.
Why climb this mountain? This climb packs in all the great things about the Wicklow Mountains into one hike. It feels vast and remote while still being relatively close to Dublin. If you are looking to make an escape from the city, then this is the one for you.
Suggested Route: I’d recommend the Lugnaquilla and Cloghernagh via Mine Path trail. Again, this is a full on hike. You will need strong navigational skills for this one too. I prefer ascending from the Glenmalure side and this is the main reason for suggesting this option.
While there was once an easier route to the summit via the zig-zags above Carrawaystick Waterfall (which I’ve written about here), access issues mean this route is no longer available to hikers.
Where to Stay? Again, camping is an option but my recommendation would definitely be the Glenmalure Lodge. I’ve stayed here while completing the Wicklow Way and cannot sing its praises highly enough. When I stayed there, I really enjoyed the good food and lively bar for drinks afterwards. The clientele is mostly other hikers and mountain climbers so really welcoming and friendly.
Slieve Donard
I do love a trip to the Mourne Mountains. Slieve Donard ranks as the easiest of Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge. It’s still not easy. The final push to the summit is very steep. However, relative to Carrauntoohil, Mweelrea and Lugnaquilla, it feels the most straightforward.
The views from the heights of Slieve Donard out over the other granite topped peaks of the Mournes takes a lot of beating.
Why climb this mountain? For me, the Mourne walls are just special. I find it hard to describe why. Maybe the reason is the contrast of the man made structures against such a rugged and imposing backdrop.
Suggested route: You have a few options to choose from but my advice is to keep it simple. Park in Newcastle and follow the well worn path right up to the top of Slieve Donard. Check out map details here.
I’ve provided a detailed description of exactly what you should expect in my guide to climbing Slieve Donard.
Where to stay? The closest option to the trailhead is the Avoca Hotel situated right bang in the middle of Newcastle. The Hotel also looks directly over the water.
The Slieve Donard Hotel takes the honour of the most aptly named accommodation option. Perfect if you want to treat yourself to some 5-star luxury. Views from the hotel include not only the majestic Irish Sea and Mourne Mountains but also the world-famous Royal County Down Golf Club located next door.
Mweelrea
Mweelrea in County Mayo is a real beauty. The views across Killary harbour and along this stunning stretch of Wild Atlantic Way are spectacular.
Why climb this mountain? I mentioned the views – which are amazing. The ridge walk sections in particular are truly amazing. I also just love that west coast feeling that comes from being in this part of the country. The Atlantic coast of Mayo feels so wild and remote. I recommend taking a few days and soaking it all in.
Suggested Route: The most straight forward route involves an out and back hike from Silver Strand – see map details here.
I also really like the Mweelrea Loop that starts from Delphi. However, this beautiful hike comes with a couple of warnings. Firstly, it is 1,113m of elevation gain across 16km of walking. Secondly, the initial incline is via thick grass with no obvious trail – so can be quite slow progress. The Ben Lugmore ridge before Mweelrea and views of Killary after Mweelrea more than make up for the hardship though. Check out full walk details here.
Where to Stay? We stayed in West View Accommodation in nearby Louisburgh the last time we climbed Mweelrea. We enjoyed the laid-back feel to Louisburgh. While a quiet village, we still found the restaurants and pubs on offer to be very good.
Comparing the Mountains in Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge
Which is the Hardest?
The Mweelrea Loop from Delphi really takes it out of you. However, you can take the more straightforward option from SilverStrand. With Carrauntoohil however, the easiest way to summit is via the Devil’s Ladder – which is seriously steep! With that in mind, Carrauntoohil gets my vote as the most difficult mountain in Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge.
Which Should I Do First?
If you’re new to mountain hiking, I’d start with Slieve Donard. The path is well established, navigation is relatively straightforward and the views are excellent throughout. It gives you a great introduction to what mountain hiking in Ireland is all about.
Which is the Best?
This feels like choosing your favourite child. I have a slight preference for Mweelrea. If I had to rank them, I would probably go with:
- Mweelrea
- Carrauntoohil
- Lugnaquilla
- Slieve Donard
If anyone asks, I love them all equally!
What Mountain is Most Underrated
Carrauntoohil gets the headlines. Slieve Donard gets the tourists. Mweelrea gets the real hiking enthusiasts. Lugnaquilla is the one that often gets overlooked. This is despite being a superb mountain in its own right. What I love about it is that while Lugnaquilla feels remote and wild, it’s only a short drive from Dublin. If you’re looking to swap city life for open mountain landscapes, Lugnaquilla offers a dramatic change of scenery close to the capital.
Which Makes the Best Weekend Away?
You could make an argument for all four here. A weekend in the Glenmalure lodge exploring the Wicklow Mountains, or using Newcastle as a base to get your fix of the Mournes sounds like pure bliss to me. On the other side of things, the lively tourist town of Killarney is perfect for Carrauntoohil and always worth a visit. My preference though is for a weekend of chilled out pints on the Atlantic coast of Mayo after long days hiking the local trails. With that in mind, I’ve gone for Mweelrea as the best weekend away option.
So, Which Mountain Should You Choose?
If you’re looking for your first mountain, choose Slieve Donard. If you want to stand on Ireland’s highest summit, head for Carrauntoohil. And if you’re based in Dublin, Lugnaquilla is the obvious choice. Finally, if you want the finest scenery of the four, my vote goes to Mweelrea.
Can You Complete Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge in One Day?
Amazingly, yes – you can. Let’s just be clear that you don’t have to. It took me 4 years between climbing Lugnaquilla first and eventually completing Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge.
The fastest known time for completing Ireland’s 4 Peaks Challenge is 17 hours and 23 minutes. Which is amazing.
Suggested order:
- Carrauntoohil
- Mweelrea
- Lugnaquilla
- Slieve Donard
Starting at midnight, a trek up the highest mountain in darkness is the first challenge. No one said this would be easy. The recommendation is to compete the hardest mountain while energy levels are at their highest.
Ideally you want to be up and back down the mountain in 4 hours. Did I mention how hard this is?
Then it’s a 4.5 hour drive to Silver Strand to complete Mweelrea. You need to be quick with this one – give yourself 3 hours and aim to be done by noon.
Back in the car for another 4 hours to drive to Lugnaquilla. Give yourself 3 hours to get up and down the mountain and be back in the car by 7pm.
You now have 5 hours to drive to Newcastle and race to the summit in the dark. People usually leave this one until last as the route to the top is more clearly marked out.
Driving distances: Expect to spend around 11 hours in the car.
Total hiking distance: 45km !!
Total ascent: Approx 3,300m
It seems like complete madness but some people do complete Ireland’s 4 peak challenge in under 24 hours. Just thinking about the logistics of transport, food, water, petrol etc. gives me a headache. This is a massive test of endurance. Please don’t try it.
Personally, I think standing on the highest mountain in each province is achievement enough.
